Adjusting the Standard (Original) Dixon Transaxle
Pre-adjustment checks (Please note - all part numbers are in parentheses, quantities in bold.)
It will do no good to adjust the transmission if certain parts are worn excessively or broken.
Check these parts before proceeding.
1) All springs (6) (5133, 5170, 5036)
2) Rear pivot bolts(2) (2166) and hole (or bushing (5279) if so equipped).
These allow the rear of the cradle casting (holds the rotating discup in place) to pivot slightly as the control levers are moved.
3) Bell crank pivots (2) (kit 1636)
These connect the rod ends to the double ball joints.
4) Ball joints (4) and double ball joints (2) (8284, 8285, 3775)
The ball joints or rod ends as they are referred to connect the control levers to the transmission It is highly recommended to replace these with the newest style for longer wear and less play. A small amount of wear on a ball joint is multiplied several times at the control lever. If one side has a slight amount different wear than another, a perfectly adjusted transmission will not drive evenly due to lever play.
5) Torque rods (2) (5152, 5145, 2555, 2149)
These are the horizontal rods that extend through an eye bolt at the outside of the trans. These sometimes break near the point where they screw into the casting of the discup cradle. The symptom of this will be very little lever resistance and little driving force. One side will not react to steering well. If both are broken the mower will barely move.
6) Neutral rods (2) (5221)
These are the vertical threaded rods that have a spring sandwiched on top and bottom of the discup cradle casting.
7) Bearings(10) (5028, 5049)
If the bearings have lost contact with the shaft or if the bearing is loose or worn out it must be replaced if there is any play or looseness in any of the shafts.
Once it has been determined that all parts are in adequate condition, you may proceed with the following adjustments. Note that this applies only to the standard transaxle and not to Dixon's Z-drive transaxle. The Dixon Z-drive transaxle has swing-out levers. It also contains no torque rods.
Step 1) Loosen the lock nuts on the 2166 pivot bolts at the rear of the trans. (Use 11/16 open end wrench)
Step 2) Loosen the outside lock nuts on the torque rods. (These are the two adjustment points.)(Use 1/2 inch open or box end wrench)
Step 3) Removing old gap. Turn the Allen head pivot bolt(2166) and the inside torque rod nut to push the cradle casting in toward the cone. (This should be done by turning the torque rod nut 2 turns for every 1 turn of the pivot bolt as the T-rod is fine thread.) Continue turning them until the discup cannot be turned because it is locked up on the cone. Be careful not to turn in too far as this could cause something to break. Just barely lock cup to cone.
Step 4) Squaring the discup. You must make sure that the discup is perpendicular with the back frame of the transmission. This can be done with a combination square or the Dixon special tool (5056). Release the front or rear that is more inboard than the other and adjust the outboard one in until the discup is square and it is still just barely locked on the cone.
Step 5) Setting the neutral gap. Loosen the adjustment bolts ever so slightly until the cups and cones just have a slight drag but no gap (You cannot move the discup up and down by hand.) Back off the pivot bolt about 2 flats(1/3 of a turn) and the T-rod nut 4 flats(1/2 a turn). This should give about a .020 to .025 gap between the cup and the cone. Try to do both sides the same. This will give a better result.
Step 6) Setting neutral. Make sure that the space between the bottom neutral rod lock and the lower spring nut contains about 5 threads. This holds the cradle up off the cone. Turn the upper spring nut down until the neutral gap is split between the upper and lower cones. This will change if the levers are not installed, i.e., if you have the trans out and you are doing this on the bench. If so, you will need to recheck this after the levers are on. Remember that one side goes up and one side goes down when you drive forward so the spring adjustments will look different on each side. This is normal.
Step 7) Final adjustments. Once the trans is all hooked up and ready to go make sure that the control rods are adjusted correctly. The lever stubs should be vertical or slightly rearward. The control levers should be even.
The torque rod inserts, if so equipped, (5185)should have the flat spot facing forward.
You should be able to roll the machine and not hear the cones rubbing on the cups. If needed, adjust the neutral spring nuts so the cones do not rub when rolling the machine.
Make sure you have locked all adjustments in place. Make sure the jam nuts are tight or you will lose your adjustment after a few hours of use.
If machine drives relatively straight (moving straight forward with levers within an inch of each other) when you are finished - Congratulations. If not, you should probably take the machine to your local dealer for adjustment.